There's a hot, dip-with-every-bite experience, and no need for plastic utensils. The heat of the broth melts the cheese, turning it into a soupy mess of flavor punched up by the heat of the jalapeño sauce. And though it's more like a thin broth, there's surprisingly good flavor.
The flautas are crunchy, but soaked in the salsa, the crispness begins to give. But something happens with that first bite.
Some might question the cheese, which is so finely shredded you could swear you see powder. Signs outside the drab, unimpressive buildings give no indication of its signature dish: three rolled tacos containing ground beef covered in finely shredded cheese, all soaked in translucent red "salsa" in a white cardboard boat and topped with jalapeño salsa. The best way to explain how Chico's serves one of America's best tacos is to say how improbably bad this small chain and its fare appear at first glance.
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